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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Carthage, MO
    Posts
    10,055

    Default

    The conduit nuts do expand and contract then loosen up too much. I did one drum (the IT barrel for glued2it) where I used caps with a thru hole drilled and it worked well. I can't say whether they have ever loosened up or not, but they were put down tight.

    Good solution buster. Keep your pics coming this way.
    Plank Owner ..................
    I didn't fight my way to the top of the food chain to be a vegetarian!



  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    36

    Default

    This is a great thread. I already have a 55 gallon UDS and I have a new 30 gallon drum waiting to be modded and have been looking for ideas on what I want to do to it. I am looking forward to seeing how your project turns out and some more pictures.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Carrollton, TX
    Posts
    32

    Default

    Thanks, I've been able to get some more accomplished, but have also run into a slight snag with documentary work.

    I started painting the drum Monday afternoon. Got the drum, and lid all taped up, and ready to go.

    Shortly after I took this pic I walked inside for a moment, and put the tripod (with camera attached) down on the kitchen counter top for a quick sec.



    Turned my back long enough to hear a sickly *smack* on the tile floor.

    Sure enough, the digi-cam is down. Fortunately, it doesn't look to severe. The viewing LCD screen is broken, but the external frame/body survived with only a minor nick. I can't really see what's being shot to make alignment, but at least the camera still works and the lens is intact. Going to cost ~$100 to get the LCD repaired, and it'll be out for repairs for a week. Good news is my new HTC Incredible will be here tomorrow, so at least I can fall back to it's camera to continue the pics. Might not be a clear as previous, but it should suffice. (we'll see. I've heard mixed reviews about the camera's abilities)

    On another note, got a question for ya folks.

    When it comes to the seasoning burn, is there a "preferred/recommended" oil/fat to use, or is it just whatever strikes your fancy? (ie.. spray can of canola, lard, olive oil, etc)

    The reason I ask is I was making bacon tonight, and captured all of the drippings/excess fat. Appears to be ~1/4 cup or so, and had a light bulb moment just as I was pouring into the storage container.



    What about using it to wipe down the interior of the drum for the seasoning? I'd still use spray canola on the grill grates, but I don't see there being an issue to use the bacon fat.

    What do ya'll think?
    What do you mean they don't make applewood smoke flavored toothpaste?!

    North Texas 30 Gal UDS

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    St. Petersburg, Fl.
    Posts
    4,717

    Default

    Sure, you could use the bacon grease. BUT, why use it for wiping down a drum. I'd use the canola for that and use the bacon grease for more important things, like adding flavor when sauteing something or to add flavor to veggies or something.

    JWWFM-YMMV
    Jim

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    3,034

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BYBBQ View Post
    Sure, you could use the bacon grease. BUT, why use it for wiping down a drum. I'd use the canola for that and use the bacon grease for more important things, like adding flavor when sauteing something or to add flavor to veggies or something.

    JWWFM-YMMV


    I would just spray it, thats what I did, not too heavy either.




    fer the idea on attaching the airintake to the drum, I am currently using conduit washers and have to tighten them up all the time!! again!!!
    MEMBER: BERGIE BBQ team 2011, 2012.




  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tulsa
    Posts
    4,976

    Default

    I think the best way to season it is also the easiest.

    Just fire it up with a pound or two of beef suet of pork fatback on the grate, and let the fire do the seasoning for you.
    Last edited by SmokyOkie; 08-22-2010 at 10:51 AM.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Carrollton, TX
    Posts
    32

    Default

    I'm thinking the canola spray will be the best/easiest. I agree, the bacon fat can be better used in/on other things.

    More updates, so here we go!

    Threaded pieces in place with red locktite. 48hr cure.



    I got to thinking my exhaust vent solution was beginning to be overly complicated. I was standing in the local automotive parts store starring at high temp paint, contemplating which red I wanted to use... Ford, or Chrysler?...when I backed up into the rack behind me. It was full of all kinds of car/muffler/racing exhaust pieces. I've been here staring at this rack before, but realized there was something here that would make my life much easier.



    $10. I was looking at buying $15 in paint, so I'm pretty sure I walked out on the better side of that decision.

    Here's the drum after 2 coats of the standard high temp flat grill paint.



    I was starting to work on more paint prep, when I remembered, Doh! I forgot the hole for the digital temp probe. I added that, but I do have a question for ya'll.

    When it comes to that solution, what have you seen being used? And I guess what I'm really looking for are solutions to ensure the hole size stays as close to the size of the probe, without letting air/smoke seep out. I was thinking of plugging it with some sort of silicone plug made with high temp automotive gasket silicone, but I have concerns about using that product in a food environment. Obviously real cork wouldn't survive, but I would like to find something like that, where I can push the probe through, and seal the drum hole at the same time.

    Thoughts??

    This is something that struck me knee-deep into the project, so I'm going to circle back if there's no clear cut solution out there.



    Test fitting the upper and lower grates.



    Some more paint.



    Air inlet elbows installed. Ran some red locktite on the inside threads to make sure the coupler stays secure on the inside.



    1st coat of high temp clear coat enamel.



    You can see that the ball valve inlet will be mounted into the center of the "O" in this pic.

    Here's the finished exhaust vent tube.



    And that last piece of bling I've been waiting on.... It's actually true to the team colors. Not sure why it's showing up so dark/black in this image....Still need to learn how to tweek this phones camera settings.



    That's most of the work done. I'm down to just the basket/charcoal grate, and some touch up work. Hopefully I'll be able to get more of that done tomorrow.

    More to come!
    What do you mean they don't make applewood smoke flavored toothpaste?!

    North Texas 30 Gal UDS

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tulsa
    Posts
    4,976

    Default

    Looking good.

    Don't worry about the probe hole leaking. a 1/4" hole or so should be all you need, and that will not make any appreciable difference in the performance of the drum.

    You will prolly find though, that the 90 intakes will slow the induced flow considerably.

    You will have plenty of intake with the ball valve for most applications, but if you dfind that you have trouble getting to higher temps when you want them, that would be the first place to look.

    Where do you get high temp clear coat? How high temp is it?

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,034

    Default

    Looking great! If you MUST put that Cowgirls plate on the drum, I suggest you mount it on the inside.
    UDS Mini UDS Weber Performer Weber 18.5 OTG Smokey Joe Smokey Joe WSM mod Weber-Q 1200

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Carrollton, TX
    Posts
    32

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SmokyOkie View Post
    Looking good.

    Don't worry about the probe hole leaking. a 1/4" hole or so should be all you need, and that will not make any appreciable difference in the performance of the drum.


    Ok, that's good news. Like I said before, it came as an after thought, and I've never really seen anyone discussing it in great detail, so I wasn't too sure on it's real impact to the overall performance.

    Quote Originally Posted by SmokyOkie View Post
    You will prolly find though, that the 90 intakes will slow the induced flow considerably.

    You will have plenty of intake with the ball valve for most applications, but if you dfind that you have trouble getting to higher temps when you want them, that would be the first place to look.
    Also good to know. Air flows like water, and a 90 elbow in a water line definitely adds some restriction to flow. If it does present a problem I'll swap the 3/4" ball valve for a 1" (or larger?).

    Quote Originally Posted by SmokyOkie View Post
    Where do you get high temp clear coat? How high temp is it?
    Well I say "high temp", but that may be stretching the product's performance. It's not rated as high as grill paint per say, but as an external coating, I think it should suffice as a nice enamel/sealer.




    I got it from the same (generic/name your flavor) auto parts store as the exhaust muffler tip. (but on a previous visit)

    Figured it would be a nice way to seal all the hardware mounting holes once the applicable bolt is installed. (see the SS carriage bolt heads for the grill grates) I don't see myself ever cranking the internal temps up much beyond say 325-350 max (see PVC exhaust parts). If it does pose a problem, well, that's what they make MEK for, right?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bubblehead View Post
    Looking great! If you MUST put that Cowgirls plate on the drum, I suggest you mount it on the inside.

    Heh, at the rate the offense has played in the pre-season so far, it may become my diffuser.
    Last edited by spdr8cer; 08-22-2010 at 07:37 PM.
    What do you mean they don't make applewood smoke flavored toothpaste?!

    North Texas 30 Gal UDS

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