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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Ok heres what I got so far.

    "Frankensmoker"

    This blog is in the order of how it's being built, and since I rely on another guy for welding, it seems to jump around a bit... oh and its long... you have been warned!

    Jerry516... The plate steel was already cut to exact with it's 1/4" plate at 50" in length and will fit perfectly level to the top of the firebox, I will need to grind this to a slight taper for draining.
    The smoker will be lower by 1" opposite firebox side, this way I can have a drain in the bottom of the tank and one in the plate.

    Hopefully I can get a slight bend in the metal to form a slight cupping shape as well.
    I also got a bit scared and went with 6" from the thermal plate to the top of the cooking grates.



    Zeeker, your handle on your work of art is what inspired me to take off the existing handle and make one from wood, also can you give me the specifics on how you painted. I want to do the door red to match my Weber Grill, I know a primer is needed, what did you use?

    It also looks like your beauty and my Frankensmoker are the only 2 I have seen with the firebox door on the operator side, what was your logic in this?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jerry516planes View Post
    Menards has 2" valves for about $35. You will not be happy with the one inch. I used the 1" and had to cut it out and replace with 2". The one ich was always plugged and really messy!

    http://www.theqjoint.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1459


    Keep us posted and good luck!
    2"... is that pipe size?, thats huge, I would be afraid food would fall through a hole that big.
    on a 1" valve I can get my thumb inside.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Ruskin, FL
    Posts
    6,290

    Default

    Looking good so far, Squib! Love that idea of preheating the smoke chamber.
    Not really loving the slinky, but I guess you have to work with what you have.
    I wonder if there would be a way to install shock absorbers on the tank, and have stops on the door to slow the opening action.
    Shocks
    ~Brian~
    BBQ Jones comp team
    KCBS Member
    KCBS CBJ

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Joneser View Post
    Looking good so far, Squib! Love that idea of preheating the smoke chamber.
    Not really loving the slinky, but I guess you have to work with what you have.
    I wonder if there would be a way to install shock absorbers on the tank, and have stops on the door to slow the opening action.
    Shocks
    Thats why it's the "Frankensmoker".
    Yeah its not pretty but functional, the problem is the door needs to have resistance when its about 12" open or it falls back sharply.

    I could not find anything that gives me a range like the spring.
    I originally tried using the entire door closer, what I done was cut off the end and pulled out the mechanism and reversed it to work as a plunger. exactly what you have posted.

    This is one thing that I am sure will roll around in my head till I find a better solution.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Jenison, Michigan, United States
    Posts
    769

    Default Fire Box

    Just an after thought:

    I have always wished that I had built the firebox out of 2" tubing and insulated with mineral wool. I know my next one will be insulated.

    I also found that the design numbers are just a place to start. A smaller fire box is better than bigger! I learned this one the hard way. You can go smaller without changing the basic design sizes if you insulate the the firebox. This is due to the fact you are reducing the heat loss from the fire box.

    My fire box is 16" x 16" x 21" on a 72" x 20"

    I really like your cooking grids!! Where did you get those?

    It is going to be a great smoker! The basic design is great!

    The drain size I am using is 2" OD black pipe. I thought the same about the size till I had problems. What happens is the grease cools as it drains out and solidifies on the out side of drain pipe and it eventually plugs up. The 2" does the same, but is large enough to not plug on a 12 hr cook. Since it is much larger it is easier to clean on the fly. Just my personal experience.`

    I really like these hindges http://www.hardwaresource.com/index....ct_list&c=1174

    Best of luck!
    Jerry.Hickory Grove BBQ
    20" x 72" Gravity Feed by Wasson
    Member GLBBQA http://www.glbbqa.com/
    Member KCBS and Certified Judge

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    85

    Default

    I have always wished that I had built the firebox out of 2" tubing and insulated with mineral wool. I know my next one will be insulated.
    I have thought of an insulated build as well but don't have the resources.


    I also found that the design numbers are just a place to start. A smaller fire box is better than bigger! I learned this one the hard way. You can go smaller without changing the basic design sizes if you insulate the the firebox. This is due to the fact you are reducing the heat loss from the fire box.My fire box is 16" x 16" x 21" on a 72" x 20"
    That makes sense, but doesn't making it slightly larger have its benefits too, since the firebox needs to be a certain amount of cubic inches and if you need to reduce the cubic inches you could add fire brick or add an inside plate

    I really like your cooking grids!! Where did you get those?
    At partstore.com, there is also a link on the blog.

    It is going to be a great smoker! The basic design is great!
    Thankyou, all the reinforcements have been motivating me more.

    The drain size I am using is 2" OD black pipe. I thought the same about the size till I had problems. What happens is the grease cools as it drains out and solidifies on the out side of drain pipe and it eventually plugs up. The 2" does the same, but is large enough to not plug on a 12 hr cook. Since it is much larger it is easier to clean on the fly. Just my personal experience.`
    I really like these hindges http://www.hardwaresource.com/index....ct_list&c=1174

    Best of luck!
    what is the ID pipe is usually measure by ID is it 1-3/4"
    2" Ball Valve

    I wouldn't even know where to get 2" pipe maybe Mcmaster

    Ball valve

    2" Pipe

    I need to find them cheaper this is way out of my budget.

    Let me know what you think

    Them hinges are priced nicely

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tulsa
    Posts
    4,976

    Default

    Nice build! I can't quite figure out your damping system though.

    Quote Originally Posted by SQWIB View Post
    2"... is that pipe size?, thats huge, I would be afraid food would fall through a hole that big.
    on a 1" valve I can get my thumb inside.
    There are high density urethane foam casters available that look like pneumatics, but have no air to lose. If oyu talk to anybody that does comps and has pneumatic tires, they will have a multitude of horror stories to share with you.

    Here is a link so that you can see what I'm talking about. I bought mine from Casters of Oklahoma

    I can't find them in their catalog though.

    Oh yeah, definitely 2" drain.

    Here ya go
    Last edited by SmokyOkie; 02-19-2010 at 03:12 PM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SmokyOkie View Post
    Nice build! I can't quite figure out your damping system though.


    Here ya go
    Do you mean the trap door underneath the smoke chamber or the "possible" firebox to smoke chamber vent?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SmokyOkie View Post
    Nice build! I can't quite figure out your damping system though.

    There are high density urethane foam casters available that look like pneumatics, but have no air to lose. If oyu talk to anybody that does comps and has pneumatic tires, they will have a multitude of horror stories to share with you.

    Here is a link so that you can see what I'm talking about. I bought mine from Casters of Oklahoma


    Here ya go
    Wow I like them...a lot, hey I just realized that your smokyokie... I wanted to thank you for the Smoki Okie method, hopefully I will be trying your method on "Frank"

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tulsa
    Posts
    4,976

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SQWIB View Post
    Do you mean the trap door underneath the smoke chamber or the "possible" firebox to smoke chamber vent?
    I was talking about the counterweight spring assy, but now I see what you did. The counterweight on my stickburner balances pretty well all the way through the swing. I think it is all in the angle and weight.

    Quote Originally Posted by SQWIB View Post
    Wow I like them...a lot, hey I just realized that your smokyokie... I wanted to thank you for the Smoki Okie method, hopefully I will be trying your method on "Frank"
    You are most welcome sir. I certainly hope you enjoy it.

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